At the time of writing this, I've only just started on the project. I had the idea while building this website, and with some gentle heckling from one of my friends I decided to go for it.
The basic concept is to use a rear triangle from an existing bike, and build a front triangle to suit my riding style. I don't have access to a machine shop during COVID, so I'll be using all my own tools. This means it's pretty unrealistic for me to build a full suspension rear triangle, as I don't have access to any machining equipment. The rear triangle is much more complex than the front. Using a different rear triangle also lets me use a more complex linkage system than I'd be inclined to manufacture on my own with limited tooling.
Front triangle CAD.
Santa Cruz 5010, the bike my rear triangle came from.
Frame jigs make building bikes much, much easier. They hold your tubes in the same plane while you weld them, as well as providing an easy way to verify that your tubes are cut to match your desired geometry. Building my own jig isn't an option, I couldn't build something I'd feel good about with hand tools.
I designed 3D printed blocks to position my tubes. this allowed me to verify that my hand filed miters were coming out at the right angle. It also served as a way to hold the frame during tack welding.
The 3D printed blocks worked really well for this frame because I didn't have to build a rear triangle. The rear axle sticks really far out of the plane of the frame, which makes the method much trickier to use.
Anvil Bicycle Frame Jig
3D Printed Fixturing
Frame in Fixtures
I welded the front triangle, but it warped more severely than past frames I've built. I think a lack of rigid fixturing caused this. Ordinarily I tack weld all around the joint while the jig holds the tubes in position, but the tubes were free floating in the printed parts. This let them pull towards the heat while I tacked them.
I welded the seat tube/bottom bracket joint first because there's interference between the down tube and seat tube.
I left the head tube long to help prevent radial warpage, as the headset is a press fit.
The head tube was cocked to the left side of the bike relative to the bottom bracket/seat tube. I clamped the seat tube end of the frame to a workbench, put a long steel tube in the head tube, and persuaded it into position.
BB Weld
Frame After Tacking
Clamping the Frame
I 3D Printed a jig that slides over the bottom bracket with a drill bushing pressed in that let me drill a hole to accept a threaded stand off. This is where the lower link mounts.
Drilling Fixture
Shock Mount
Upper Pivot
I painted the frame the same color as my Vanagon because I had extra paint. Parts are slowly trickling in, hopefully it will be rideable within a few weeks!
First Time Fitting Rear Triangle
Bottle Bosses
Paint!
Most of a bike! I'm waiting on a shifter mount, and then it should be rideable. I'm so excited to get back on the trails with my friends.